Reso Hangout - Building, Setup, and Repair Forum Feed

brass body resonator construcion

eric@resohangout.com — Thu, 11 Mar 2010 20:34:40 CST

I am building a brass bodied resonator guitar with a National body profile without plans. The body just came back from being nickel plated and looks great and I need advice on the neck to body angle...I am thinking about 1/2 degree off vertical but I don't have enough information about how that angle effects string pressure on the biscuit bridge and resulting sound. Any advice would be helpful.

spider question

eric@resohangout.com — Thu, 11 Mar 2010 17:41:32 CST

I recieved my reso back from the repair shop with a new cone and new inserts. He mentioned that my spider is an import and I should change it. what will swapping to a #14 spider do for my sound? With the new cone it sounds awesome

Thanks

eric@resohangout.com — Wed, 10 Mar 2010 13:02:07 CST

I would like to thank Greg for the review he posted in the Reviews section after taking his time to get a feel for his new guitar. I really appreciate it. Thanks, Phil

Cover Plate Question

eric@resohangout.com — Tue, 9 Mar 2010 14:11:42 CST

[navy][/navy Hello Everyone... My name is Roger, this is my first post here. On a resonator guitar with a spider bridge, is the cover plate supposed to come in contact with the spider bridge framework. If so, what points should make contact and how "hard" should the contact be?? Thank you for your help. Rajtheroge3

cone question

eric@resohangout.com — Fri, 5 Mar 2010 11:37:27 CST

I have an import reso with an import cone. Last night (in the middle of a picking party) I blew my cone. The repair shop is going to repair it on Monday using a quarterman cone. Is there going to be a noticable difference with the quarterman over the import? I opted to pay more for it than the import version in the hopes I won't blow this one out.

Setup questions from a newbe

eric@resohangout.com — Fri, 5 Mar 2010 02:11:26 CST

Hi all. I just purchased a squareneck and I'm enjoying it a lot. My first question is of string-gauge: I've been messing a bit around with different tunings and I find myself using the open D a lot. I find it a really nice and versatile tuning. But I also want to be able to tune up to G. Do you use the same gauges for DADF#AD-tuning as standard G? Also, I would like to know if there is an easy way of adjusting bridge height. It seems to me to be a bit on the low side. (I have to put the strings "backwards" throught the tailpiece to make the angle right and my fingerpicks are uncomfortably close to the reso-cover). Some of this must have been discussed a lot earlier, I just couldn't find answers to those specific questions. Any suggestions, tips or links to diskussions on theese matters would be welcome Anders

String Height help please

eric@resohangout.com — Thu, 4 Mar 2010 18:53:39 CST

I'm setting up a round neck reso to play like a square neck with a new nut and saddle. I see the Shubb capo can be set at 3/8 or 7/16 string height. I am wondering what the proper string height should be and is the string spacing any wider on a square neck? Also should the height be measured from the fret or the fretboard? I am a 30 year guitar player but always loved the dobro. This is my first real reso and I plan on upgrading to a nice square neck in the future. I am aware of the EJ-42s tuned to GBDGBD on a round neck scares people but I'll take my chances. I have been playing it for a while with the slip on nut extention with no probs. It is a Jay Turser 900RES with a mini humbucker and a piezo pickup. With the spun cone it sounds suprisenly well for a cheaper reso and when blending the pickups it sounds good threw an acoustic amp. Thanks

home made reso question

eric@resohangout.com — Wed, 3 Mar 2010 07:49:48 CST

I found this mini guitar, converted it to a square neck for trips. (my reso takes up too much room in the overhead compartment of the plane) is there any way I can put a home made cone/plate on this thing? right now it has a jack for headphones, I'd like to make it louder so I don't need headphones [IMG]http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y7/vegtam2003/013.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y7/vegtam2003/016.jpg[/IMG]

Rattle on high D, A

eric@resohangout.com — Sat, 27 Feb 2010 11:19:20 CST

Hi, I have a National Estralita Deluxe. I have owned it for about two or three months. Bought used in Great shape. It hadn't been played for about a week and when I picked it up again there is now a loud rattle (when plucked hard) on the high D string (in open D tuning). Less prominent on the high A string but still there. Seems to eminate from the upper bout of the guitar. I tried shaking the guitar and do not hear anything loose. Any thoughts. Thanks... I don't have anyone near me who can check this out. Bones

Burl Myrtle

eric@resohangout.com — Thu, 25 Feb 2010 19:55:38 CST

[IMG]http://i903.photobucket.com/albums/ac238/mastereso/DSCF1157.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i903.photobucket.com/albums/ac238/mastereso/DSCF1155.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i903.photobucket.com/albums/ac238/mastereso/DSCF1154.jpg[/IMG] Looks Nuclear does'nt it!!!!!!!

repair question

eric@resohangout.com — Wed, 24 Feb 2010 19:37:32 CST

Hello everyone! I have a situation that I hope you can help me with. I have a cheap import reso that I haven't been able to play much,because the manufacturer butchered the route in the top. They (or someone) plunged the router too far into the top and backed it out as they went around the hole,so there are about three distinct levels for the cone to sit on.The cone was held down by seven small screws so it wouldn't buzz. As a result,it doesn't have much volume either. I purchased a Beard cone and spider for it,but can't seem to solve the top issue.Has anyone ever repaired one like this? I'd really appreciate your help!

Nylon Strings?

eric@resohangout.com — Sun, 21 Feb 2010 09:04:19 CST

Can i put nylon strings on a biscuit resonator guitar?

Prewar Model 27 questions

eric@resohangout.com — Sat, 20 Feb 2010 23:27:56 CST

Hi, I recently aquired what I believe to be a 1933 Dobro square neck model 27. I'd like any advice as how I should proceed in cleaning it up. What to do or not do. Thank you.

Hello, and a quick Q or two

eric@resohangout.com — Thu, 18 Feb 2010 16:54:42 CST

Hi everyone, this forum comes highly recommended. Love the lessons section especially! I've been interested in slide guitar for a while now, but haven't really gotten into learning much beyond jamming along to a 12-bar thing in an open tuning. Anyhow I just unexpectedly bought a used resonator, it's a lower end model but it seems like it'll be plenty good for now. It's a regal roundneck, with a single cone (?) and a bridge that you can see in the photo - maple biscuit bridge? Not sure the terminology. Anyhow it needs a little bit of TLC and I'm sure the good folks here can help. I put on some 13-56 phosphor bronze strings and tuned it up to GBDGBD, and a couple hours later I'm looking at around, oh, .06 relief at the 8th fret. I would like to put a .014 on the high string too. On a normal guitar, I would not let that situation continue - but is that much relief normal or acceptable on these things? I'm hoping to play both slide and non-slide on this, and also like to fret whilst sliding. The nut seems like it's just about where I want it for that. All advice and ideas very welcome. Tim

Laguna Bandsaw dobro entry

eric@resohangout.com — Tue, 16 Feb 2010 11:13:38 CST

I entered a contest with my homemade (otherwise known as custom) resonator guitar. I'll see if I can put a picture of it here on this post. Laguna is giving away a bandsaw to the entry with the most votes. If you should happen to visit the website[:p] http://www.lagunatools.com/showusyourlove?utm_source=AWW and you think that a resonator guitar is a suitable as a winning project I would be forever grateful for a vote for # 212. It is near the bottom of the page. There are four or five other guitars in the contest and all of the entries seem to be worthy entrants. I used a chainsaw for a fair portion of the milling of the wood for my reso and a new bandsaw capable of milling would make future projects much easier. The woods used are black locust for the top, sides, and neck, osage orange for the fretboard with black walnut strips for frets, black mother of pearl inlay, Classic OO horseshoe for the peghead, ham bone for the wrap-around nut, Beard cone, #14 spider, Allen tailpiece, four black walnut soundposts, and a standard cotton girth strap with leather wrapped around the exposed metal for a strap, held on by a bridle chinstrap on one end and a spur strap on the other. Here is my first shot at attaching a picture. Like a politician, "Thank you in advance for you vote".

A Beginner's Tuning Issue

eric@resohangout.com — Sun, 14 Feb 2010 14:56:10 CST

Hi. I've just started playing, bought a pretty inexpensive instrument, and am having an odd tuning problem. Essentially, when strings are in tune open, the lower three strings go sharp as I move up the neck, while the higher three tend to stay in tune. For example, if I am tuned in open G, when I try to play the octave bar chord on the 12th fret, my upper three strings will still be in tune with their open counterparts, but the lower three will be notably sharp. Therefore I have to slant my slide for the chord to be in tune. My question is: Is this even a problem or is it normal? If it is a problem, is it a problem with the guitar or with the strings? Bear in mind that this was about a $300 guitar and the strings are still stock. Thanks alot! -Andy

Emerson & Waldron

eric@resohangout.com — Fri, 12 Feb 2010 16:49:47 CST

Can someone tell me who was playing dobro with this band? Maybe Mike A? Just beautiful. Thanks

Changing cone... how much play should cone have??

eric@resohangout.com — Fri, 12 Feb 2010 12:09:54 CST

I am changing out a cone in an inexpensive duolian style reso. The old cone has about a 1/4" of play in the recess for the cone to move around... the new National cone has maybe a 1/16" .... will this effect set-up? I'm guessing that the cone doesn't need to be contacting the wall sides after being strung up.... seems to me that would inhibit the cones ability to vibrate. This is my first reso.... but I'm fairly well schooled on setting up my other instruments. Any advice is appreciated. TIA LD

Mastereso Photos

eric@resohangout.com — Sun, 31 Jan 2010 19:13:26 CST

I just received an email from Phil with a few photos attached of the new Mastereso. They are on my profile page under Mastereso Construction. It is taking shape and looking good! [:)]

Dobro F60 Squareneck internal photos needed

eric@resohangout.com — Sat, 30 Jan 2010 03:39:54 CST

Hi guys, I am trying to locate any photographs of the inner workings/construction of the Dobro F60 squareneck. I have a rather badly contructed one and would like to check how everything 'should look' as opposed to 'does look' I have the feeling that this was constructed on a Friday afternoon and some parts were very badly put together. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Dave

Metal polishing nickel plate.

eric@resohangout.com — Tue, 26 Jan 2010 23:55:46 CST

Hi all. I've been lurking here for a while and finally signed up. I'm a longtime regular user of the UMGF, but recently I've realised a lifelong dream, and acquired a National 014. It's all still very new, and I'm real novice when it comes to resonator guitar setup/maintainence. I'm getting there though! NRP recommend using Flitz or Autosol for cleaning the metal body occasionally (for stubborn marks). I've got some Autosol (couldn't find Flitz in New Zealand). I used it sparingly on a few marks on my guitar - worked great! I just wonder if I should avoid the sandblasted patterns with the polish? I.e. could I accidentally polish through the sandblasting, or is that impossible? Sorry if it's a dumb question. I really am a novice! John in NZ.

Dobro construction,"traditional" vs"contempora

eric@resohangout.com — Mon, 25 Jan 2010 20:06:16 CST

Hello, I'm brand new to this blog, however I would like to know the construction difference of "traditional" vs"contemporary" Dobros? Also would the difference be interchangable if it's just the guts of the instrument. Thanks Dwertz

Adding extra sound holes to a GT PBS with pictures

eric@resohangout.com — Sun, 24 Jan 2010 04:27:49 CST

Got my first GT PBS square neck resonator a few weeks ago and wanted to customize it a bit. Last year I'd added some extra sound holes to a GT Dojo - a single cone resonator guitar with a 5 string banjo neck. It was an easy job which helped to let the sound out and made the instrument look unique. Drilling large holes in new instruments always makes me a little nervous but it only requires some careful preparation and a few woodworking tools. The inside lip of resonator sound hole covers measures 2 7/8 inch dia so I used a slightly smaller common 2 3/4 hole saw. It left a fairly clean cut which was sanded smooth with sandpaper wrapped around a wood dowel. [img]http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt42/jpiperson2002/IMG_7931.jpg[/img] Here's how it looks with different combination of screened and open sound hole covers. A thin strip of rubber or masking tape is run along the lip of the sound hole covers to give a snug press fit. The 3 smaller holes at the end the fretboard are a reference to the 3 holes used on the Dobro as discussed in this thread about sound hole screens http://www.resohangout.com/topic/10708/. The holes shown here differ from the original by being in a straight line and using a larger center hole; [img]http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt42/jpiperson2002/IMG_8081.jpg[/img] [img]http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt42/jpiperson2002/IMG_8082.jpg[/img] The raised covers were made from a chrome plumbing caps epoxied to a regular cover. They're used, at the recommendation of my son, for the unusual and somewhat bug-eyed face impression they provide; [img]http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt42/jpiperson2002/IMG_8084.jpg[/img] [img]http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt42/jpiperson2002/IMG_8086.jpg[/img] Doing something like this probably lowers the resale value of the instrument but that just means I'll never sell it. John Piper

stock strings on pbs goldtone

eric@resohangout.com — Sun, 17 Jan 2010 20:35:06 CST

Im still using the strings that come with on pbs goldtone,dont know what kind they are though. Do you guys recommend i change these and put better ones on. Will i notice a big difference in sound by changing them out.(the are new) when i am playing really high notes it seems like i lose tone quality and the notes sound "empty"..is this normal.

Setup of my latest TTV from Bobby Wright

eric@resohangout.com — Sun, 17 Jan 2010 08:03:47 CST

I just got my TTV back from Bobby Wright, One of the best setup men around and one heck of a nice guy. He has a web Page ( google bobby wright reso) or www.customresosetup.com . I had a deformed cone and some setup problems which really affected the sound. He replaced the cone , spider, maple inserts,etc with a setup at a reasonble price. This thing is really a great sounding Guitar now. I think I like the Maple body over my Mahogany TTT as far as sound. I have posted a few pics of the TTV on my homepage here for viewing if anyone is interested . Bob

Thanks&Good Luck

eric@resohangout.com — Sat, 16 Jan 2010 17:10:13 CST

I want to take this opportunity to tell you all Thanks for taking part in the Mastereso Guitar Drawing and helping me to do what I love most, building Resos, and getting them in the hands of those who want them. I really hope the winner can put it to good use. Good luck to you all! Thanks, Phil

Neck detachment

eric@resohangout.com — Sat, 16 Jan 2010 13:53:57 CST

I've had this Gold Tone PBS for about 2 years and I noticed that the neck was becoming detached about a month ago but it is getting worse, I took these pictures while the strings were tuned to G but I removed the strings because it looked like it was getting worse, what should I do about this? I have posted photos in my photo album on my member page. Thank you

How About that new Myrtle Wyattu

eric@resohangout.com — Tue, 12 Jan 2010 12:50:27 CST

How bout some pics of the New reso Wyattu???????

Round necks tuned to G.

eric@resohangout.com — Tue, 5 Jan 2010 10:27:45 CST

Hi everyone. This is my first post on this board, and I have a question. I play a Regal black lightning, squareneck, but I have an old 30's model Regal roundneck that don't get played much because I have heard that tuning a roundneck to G puts too much tension on the neck and could cause it to warp, or cause other structural damage to the guitar, but I was watching some dvd's of Flatt and Scruggs tv shows filmed in the late 50's and early 60's and Uncle Josh was playing a roundneck dobro on them. My question is, can I tune this guitar to G and leave it without any damage to it? It has a really good sound and I would love to play it more, but I play a lot in G, so I've only been playing it in lower tunings.

How should a National cone fit?

eric@resohangout.com — Tue, 5 Jan 2010 09:46:10 CST

Greetings all... I recently got a cheap resonator that I'm putting some work into to bring to life. The good news is that it sounds and plays great- there are however a few small details that I'm sorting out. I have a National cone and biscuit that I plan to install. The current cone and the National cone are the same size, but they both fit the recess pretty loosely. When sitting flat on the ledge, it is possible to move the cone about 1/4" towards or away from the headstock, or 1/4" towards the upper or lower bout. Obviously this has some pretty major ramifications for intonation, compensation and string spacing. My first question is whether this situation is normal or even intentional, so that intonation/compensation may be adjusted by the installer. Or is it just a symptom of my cheap guitar. My second question is how to ensure the cone remains well-placed once I determine it's correct location. I plan to cut the biscuit slots with the cover plate removed but the tailpiece installed; I can also slide the cone to the correct spot at this time. The problem is, when I remove the tailpiece to install the cover plate, then restring the guitar, how do I keep the cone from moving? I know that it's not customary to glue them into place, but is there some sort of temporary measure I can take to make sure that it stays put? Thanks in advance.

Set Up-Does it always help?

eric@resohangout.com — Mon, 4 Jan 2010 18:03:10 CST

First, I'm new to the forum but have already learned much. Thanks to all for the great information. I own a 1972 Dobro 33H roundneck, This is a chrome plated brass body, and I think a biscuit bridge. I originally intended to play bottleneck blues and did some, but never got serious. Recently I've found that I love lap style dobro. I play mostly old time, early country, a bit of modern country, and miscellaneous other music I just happen to like. Generally I lean to the older sounds. I raised the strings on my 33H using one of the metal nut extenders, and I'm now practicing and really liking it. I love the sound, and several of my musician friends have complimented it as well. My first thought was to diismiss getting it set up--why mess with something that works? However, after listening to the before and after sample at Rob Anderlik's site, I'm thinking maybe I'm wrong. I bought the guitar new from a music store in LaVale Maryland, which probably knew next to nothing about set up, and in any case it's traveled with me for around 40 years. Aside from the nut extender, everything is just as it was when I bought it new. Now, I realize this is not the traditional Dobro for the kind of music I'm playing, but as I say, I really like the sound. I have no basis for evaluating playability compared to other guitars. Now, my questions: 1. Am I risking loss of a sound I like in getting a professional setup? Has anyone gotten one and wished they hadn't? 2. If I invest in a setup, is there anything I should put in the "hands off" category to preserve what I already like? 3. If I decide to get a square neck and return this guitar to standard guitar (bottleneck blues) set up, will it be very difficult? (Right now I would just take the nut extender off and change the strings). 3. Can anyone recommend a set up person in Northern New England (I'm about an hour north of Boston)? Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Looking for set up artist...

eric@resohangout.com — Thu, 31 Dec 2009 09:01:40 CST

Hi, i have a new/used National Estralita Deluxe with a Highlander pick up installed and am looking for an expereinced set up "artist" to adjust the action for me. Anywhere from NYC up throught the Hudson Valley to Albany NY would work for me. Cheers, Bones

another buzzing (?) problem

eric@resohangout.com — Wed, 30 Dec 2009 01:02:17 CST

I just took my Dobro apart and sanded the edge where the cone sits, and I put a new saddle, and changed the old nut which was very rough, and now the open strings sound as clean as a whistle. but when I play with the slide, there a small rustle on all of them. I thought it was because at the nut they aren't perfectly level but this happens even worse when I tilt the bar and play on single strings, so it can't be the nut. I don't know how to describe the sound better (english is not my first language)... It's not a real buzz like zzzzzzzzz... it's more like pffffffffffff... hope you understand. Strings are new I just put them on they're not dead or rusted,etc. What could I do ? I hate it when I can't concentrate on learning the instrument because of these problems.

Almost there

eric@resohangout.com — Mon, 28 Dec 2009 16:45:46 CST

Well, I made my spatula tailpiece and strung it up. The sound is okay. Not very loud and not very reso, but actually better than I feared it would sound. I haven't made the cover yet, but I''ll post pictures when it's done. I imagine I'll break down and get a real biscuit and cone one of these days. Still in all, I did have fun and feel I've made a qualified if limited success in my test of concept. I got a guitar carcass for free, spent less than $30 in all to convert it to a playable reso. Not too shabby and gave me something to obsess about for a few weeks.

Where can I find 6 inch cones. Cheap

eric@resohangout.com — Mon, 28 Dec 2009 11:59:26 CST

I want to make some Reso Cigar box guitars. I want to find some 6 inch reso cones but I don't have a lot of money. I have seen kits for $60.00 on Ebay. I have searched the Internet and I can't find a supplier for these or the covers. What else can I use in place of the cones to make one of these guitars.

replacing the screen in my hound dog....

eric@resohangout.com — Sat, 26 Dec 2009 21:37:07 CST

So I literally just got my first dobro, a gibson hound dog deluxe which sounds pretty awesome to me for the money I spent. That aside I brought it home today and was wiping everything down after I finished playing for the day, as I was polishing the screens I noticed one of them was a bit loose and had a lot of play in it side to side... aside from that this the same one was all bent in as well so i figured since it was already loose why not pop it out and push the screen out again? Now i need to get it back in and was curious what i should use to secure it, it looks like the factory used some kind of epoxy but i cant quite tell. i know they dont serve much of a purpose other than cosmetics but i figure ill leave them in for now until i get used to the guitar. Any suggestions on what i should use to reattach it and how i should go about it? thanks, -Greg

Metal Bodied Tricone Blueprint?

eric@resohangout.com — Sat, 26 Dec 2009 13:51:50 CST

Anyone know were i can find a blueprint or at least all the specks on building a metal body tricone? I would really like to find one for the old nationals with the metal neck, if anyone has any idea on either style let me know. got a good friend that is a metal working genious and he owes me a favor...

Mastereso Koa

eric@resohangout.com — Fri, 25 Dec 2009 06:56:03 CST

Beginning construction on a Large Body Koa reso, highly figured Mahogany neck, all Koa body, every piece of hardware is American made, Quarterman cone, #14 spider, Gotoh Tuners, Ebony fretboard, wood binding. Phil

WANTED...bell brass body

eric@resohangout.com — Thu, 24 Dec 2009 20:17:39 CST

StuMack use to sell the metal bodies but not no more and well I want one. Some one on this planet gotta be making them.... If you know, please advise were I may score a metal or brass body. blessings the Padma

Slippery Slides

eric@resohangout.com — Thu, 24 Dec 2009 05:41:39 CST

I have read in past forum post about many people having trouble holding on to chrome steels.I too had the same problem and found a cheap and easy fix, it takes about ten minutes, I cut 3 strips of 240 grit sand paper and superglued them to the sides and top of my steel. It feels really good in my fingers, absoluty no tendency to slip. I have only been using it about a month but the sand paper is holding up great. I just used what I already had, 240 grit water proof sand paper. I dont know if the waterproof paper makes any difference or not, this is the only type I have tried. I hope this helps some of you,I have been lurking on this site for a couple of months now and have learned a lot. This is the first time I felt like I had something worthwhile to contribute.

Dobro Cyclops

eric@resohangout.com — Wed, 23 Dec 2009 09:08:38 CST

Hi all, I have a Dobro Cyclops made in the 90's but can't find any information about it anywhere, or even a mention that Dobro were making the Cyclops in the 90's. Has anyone got any information about this model? Cheers & Happy holidays. [:D] Dave

Help needed on cone adjusting

eric@resohangout.com — Tue, 22 Dec 2009 16:17:34 CST

Any advice on how to adjust a cone....just came over from the Banjo Hangout and need some help with my new Dobro...I know to not over tighten it...but how tight is just right....

Hound Dog end block

eric@resohangout.com — Tue, 22 Dec 2009 05:52:16 CST

Does the Gibson Hound Dog Dobro have and end block like a tradtional acousitc guitar? I want to pull out the fishman and plug the hole to take a standard strap button, but if there is no end block there will not be anything to anchor the dowel rod fix to...just a bit lazy, could take the thing apart and look, but I figured that you folks would know....thanks!

Tune-Up Time

eric@resohangout.com — Mon, 21 Dec 2009 15:12:24 CST

Since it's slow right now for playing, I took my workhorse apart for some cleaning and checking. Anyone else?

Dobro 1975 D33 info needed

eric@resohangout.com — Sun, 20 Dec 2009 09:10:56 CST

Hi all, Need a bit of help with my 1975 bell brass OMI squareneck. Does anyone out there know whether they were originally fitted with a spider or biscuit style bridge assembly. It has a brass well inside it with a wooden rim that the cone sits on, but it just looks dodgy to me and the cone has been bent over all the way around the edge to make it fit in the hole. So guessing it has been miodified at some stage. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Dave

What is a "spun" cone?

eric@resohangout.com — Sun, 20 Dec 2009 07:32:38 CST

Are all cones pressed from a sheet of metal and then finished on a lathe? What do advertisers mean when they boast having a "spun" cone?

string height

eric@resohangout.com — Sat, 19 Dec 2009 04:49:55 CST

I have a problem with getting the right notes. After the 3rd or 4th fret the right notes aren't exactly above the fret and this is even worse as I go up the neck. I tried to rotate the spider a bit but it doesn't help. I have an action of 0,35" at the nut and about 0,55" at the 12th fret. I know it is a bit low at the nut, could this be the cause of the problem ? I thought I'd shorten the saddle but i was afraid that there would be no angle and that the strings would buzz. What should I do ?

Sound Posts and Baffles or soundwell?

eric@resohangout.com — Wed, 16 Dec 2009 02:52:29 CST

Hi all, I'm a newby to the forum, but have a question for all you resonators out there. I have a, what we call in the UK, a Friday afternoon guitar. You might call it a Monday morning one. Simply put, it's not very well made. It's a '91 Dobro F60. I bought it new and got a refund from Gibson at the time, but kept the guitar. It had the soundwell glued in to wrong position meaning that nothing lined up. I have subsequently moved it and it sounds ok, but just ok doesnt really cut it for me. I have been hearing about these sound post and baffle resonators sounding so much better than the soundwell type and would happily give it a go with this Dobro. Any ideas or suggestions? [:D] I would love to hear from anyone with some info. I'd like to change this old F60 from soundwell to soundpost/baffles, can anyone advise me on how to proceed? Cheers, Dave

bending birch ply (first post)

eric@resohangout.com — Tue, 15 Dec 2009 07:33:40 CST

I'm thinking of building a dobro. Is it possible to bend plywood birch whit a bending iron and how long do I have to hold it it under water before bending?

Nitrocellulose lacquer curing

eric@resohangout.com — Mon, 14 Dec 2009 13:22:25 CST

There are products to keep lacquer from blushing when the humidity is too high by slowing down the drying time(retarders). Just for example say, one has a woodstove heated garage with very dry air are there any drawbacks to that. I understand that the ideal temperature for spraying the finish is 72 degrees but what about after you spray your three coats an hour apart in a day. Would (did you catch the pun) a good hot fire warming the place up help speed up the drying/curing process. Sort of a "baked on" finish. It takes weeks for the finish to cure enough to buff as I understand it and I'm not much for rushing stuff. I'm more liable to go cut down a tree and wait for it to cure for years when I have a project in mind however like the old song goes, "Christmas time's a comin". Would a warmer temperature with little to no humidity be a good thing for curing?