eastmountain - Posted - 11/13/2009:  08:17:29

I'm a habitual tinkerer with musical instruments and have built or modified a lot of things. I never have built a reso, but that is all about to change...

One of my sons brought me a oriental-made Kay guitar that had the top cracked and off. I am inspired to make it into a biscuit-style reso, but with bits of this and that, on the cheap, rather than purchasing actual reso parts. I have an aluminum (I think) hammered candy bowl, and the lid is fairly thin (though not like a spun cone) and it rings like a bell. That is going to be my cone. I'm thinking about a simple piece of thin plywood for the new top, and a cover from either a pizza pan or a charger plate. I'm looking for something for the sound well (an old tamborine or wood hat box, cheese box or something) but not having much luck. Could a just make a sort of "basket" out of plywood rings and dowel rods? Also, I have a wood coaster (maple I think) for the biscuit and was thinking about using some aluminum bar stock for a nut and bridge, just because I have some lying around. Do you think that will work, or would a wood bridge be better?
Anyway, thanks in advance for any suggestions or encouragement. I'm thinking this is going to be fun, even if the end result doesn't sound great.

Edited by - eastmountain on 11/13/2009 08:20:30

Slideman1939 - Posted - 11/13/2009:  10:36:47

SLIDEMAN SUGGESTS: Review old previous forum discussions.From 4/2/09 thru 5/14 there was discussion on alternative cone materials. Also--the purpose of a soundwell (original circular basket design) was to prevent the top from caving inward from the pressure of strings and downward pull of the cone. You don't have to fond a circular "something" piece of wood. A circle of dowel rods are an inexpensive solution in a home project. The downward pull is transferred thru the dowels to the inside of the guitar BACK and provides the same support a soundwell basket would have. Your cone metal must be THIN enough to vibrate.In 1926 John Dopyera tried brass, copper, and aluminum in various thicknesses. The fact that your metal rings with a tone does not (necessarily) mean it is thin enough. I always wondered about the experiment of making a National style biscuit cone from a CYMBOL. A Zildjian cymbol has a circular convex shape AND an alloy for musical sound. It is obviously too thick--so it would have to be thinned out in diameter on a lathe and the center peak hammered flat to accomodate a biscuit--BUT it is a SPUN ALLOY CONE SHAPED piece. Has anyone ever experimented with thinning out a cymbol into a National style biscuit cone.?????? An idea for your experimental project--good luck.

Tom Jr. - Posted - 11/14/2009:  04:51:24

I'd get it one piece at a time
And it wouldn't cost me a dime
You'll know it's me when I come through your town
I'm gonna ride around in style
I'm gonna drive everybody wild
'Cause I'll have the only one there is a round.

Please post pictures.

Don't squat with your spurs on.

Slideman1939 - Posted - 11/14/2009:  20:24:59

Slideman suggests: In re-reading my original missive, I referred to "thinning" the diameter. I meant to say thinning the "THICKNESS". One could acquire an old Zildjian cone, and necessarily have to amend or cut down the Zildgian cymbol to a 10 and 1/2 inch diameter cone---my original remark---or a 9 & 1/2 cone--if one wanted the thinner, higher, bluesey tone tone (National style cone compared to Dobro diameter cone). My statement SHOULD have been the diameter TRIMMED to (9 & 1/2 inch National preference by owner for the higher, whinier, bluesier tone) OR THE ALTERNATIVE (10 & 1/2 inch CONCAVE with spider). So when I referred to "THINNING" a Zildgian cymbol cone I MEANT (implied the diameter to EITHER 9 &1/2 OR 10 & 1/2) and the THINNING the Zildgian cymbol down to an appropriate "THINESS" of .010 or .012. The people that read this and say "Slideman is too wierd" would be people that have NOT GOOGLED the Zildgian Cymbol website--and HAVE NO CLUE--that Zildgian employees have to sign an agreement not to reveal the company secret ( alloy). Nor is there a clue that it is a n arabic Lebanese HAMMERED alloy of a sandwich of 3 metals. Google it PLEASE.. NOW YOU UNDERSTAND THE SLIDEMAN'S thought. A trimmed, slim, thinned out Zildgian cymbol may be TONALLY SUPERIOR to a Quarterman cone. You will recall, in 1988, I was the first one to have a Quarterman cone analyzed and have paperwork from the test shared with Paul Beard--so a Beard cone is the same as a Quarterman cone ( same specific alloy).Thinning the THICKNESS suggestion involves a lathe metal cutter taking a Zildgian cymbol cut down to the .010 or .012 to make an acceptible "NEW BEST IDEA SINCE THE QUARTERMAN CONE". Perhaps I should be Banned from the resohangout site as too wierd.If you don't study (google) BOTH sides of the family you don't know jack. Two comanies, multiple patents, ENEMIES from 1926 to 1932, and the current young people DON'T understand that 1932 that BOTH products--metal or wood were same factory---yellow line divider. YOUNG PEOPLE have to google and research BOTH sides of the family.Do you have a LATHE ?? Can you thin a cymbol ?? So many young new people have no clue that a metal or wood body NATIONAL is the same Dopyera 5 brothers as the DOBRO family (wood and metal body SIMILAR products with a different shaped amplifir cone.

eastmountain - Posted - 12/02/2009:  08:47:06

I'm about halfway there on the recycled reso. I'm very excited. It's going to be heavily inspired by the National Trojan, with some obvious detours though. The tailpiece will be made from a spatula a bought at the Dollar Store. The coverplate is a silver trophy plate from Goodwill. I put a cabinet door handle on a hammered aluminum candy dish lid for the cone/bridge. I built a soundwell "cage" out of dowel rods and plywood rings. I have some small U-bolts that I will put on four of the dowel rods and the "cone" will rest on them. If the tone of the lid sucks, I'll break down and get a real cone and bisquit bridge. I'm contemplating changing the headstock from solid to slotted, but it will require laminating a bit of oak planking to it to thicken it up. Not sure it is worth the bother, but I love slotted headstocks and this has nice three-on-a-side tuners that would work well with a slotted headstock.

Gosh, tinkering is fun.

Tom Jr. - Posted - 12/03/2009:  05:47:27

Sounds like your having a ball Eastmountain. On your first post about using aluminum for the bridge and nut, I just don't know. I've seen brass used very successfully by Carroll Benoit down Texas/Louisiana way and sound good. A true "recycling" of materials would be to cook up a big pot of bean soup with a great big ham bone in it. Instead of throwing away the bone, cut out a nut and bridge. Cook them for a minute or two on a paper towel in the microwave. You'll be amazed at how much oil comes out of it and they get very hard also. Do most of your shaping beforehand while it is softer and easier to work with.

Steevarino - Posted - 12/03/2009:  06:38:23

Hmmmm....

I use bone a lot for both nuts and saddles, but it has always been cow bone. Tom, your post has got me to wondering if pig bone would work as well, if at all. As it turns out, I bought a ham on the way home from the shop last night. Maybe after it's all eaten up, I'll boil up that bone, take it to the bandsaw and sander, and see what happens.

Hope I don't get Swine Flu !!!

Steve
RedLineReso.com

eastmountain - Posted - 12/04/2009:  19:54:02

I've used deer antler, but it really stinks when you cut it on the bandsaw. I can't find the aluminum stock anyway, so I don't know yet what I'll use.

I decided I'm not going to slot the headstock. Too much potential for ruining it and making it non-playable.

Tom Jr. - Posted - 12/08/2009:  05:47:00

I've always been curious about the suitability of antler for nuts. Any other bone has a pretty foul odor when cutting it also. Seems like I heard that the dust is bad for you in an "asbestos bad" way.

eastmountain - Posted - 12/10/2009:  11:14:27

Tom, I've found antler to be comparable to bone in working and tone. And yeah, a respirator is probably a good idea when cutting or sanding.