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 ARCHIVED TOPIC: Leveling Strings on a Weissenborn


Please note this is an archived topic, so it is locked and unable to be replied to. You may, however, start a new topic and refer to this topic with a link: http://www.resohangout.com/archive/46503

Hunter - Posted - 05/28/2017:  09:54:05


Instrument:




  • Six string Weissenborn

  • ​Bone nut

  • Bone saddle bridge, non compensated

  • The bridge is similar to a normal acoustic guitar bridge.



Problem:




  • Each of the individually played strings sound clear and strong.  However, when a chord is played the three middle strings will buzz slightly. If I apply more downward force with the bar I can get them to ring, but will sacrifice the treble and bass strings intonation.  

     

  • When I place the bar on the 12th fret and played each note, the center strings all buzzed, where as the top two treble strings were clear, and the bass string is clear also.  If I eyeball the level it appears to confirm the leveling theory. 



Question:




  • So where does one start with leveling the strings on a weissenborn?  Does one start at the bridge, or is it at the nut only? Or a combination.

     

  • Is there a method that would make this a more simple process?

     

  • Or should this be relegated to an expert?  



 



Thanks, 



Casey

docslyd - Posted - 05/28/2017:  15:13:27


Casey:
You didn't mention whether your guitar is an original Weissenborn. They had a thin brass rod which laid on the bridge and, by its nature, was perfectly level. You could go that route or, if your guitar needs a bone insert, you could replace it. The bridge needs minimal string slots so, as long as the bridge is flat, all strings should be level. You only need to compensate slightly with your bar for the greater height of the bass vs. the treble strings. Should be something you can do if you have a couple basic tools and sandpaper. You can place your bar near the nut and check for string level there as well. If you replace the nut, it will need string slots.

Eustace - Posted - 05/28/2017:  17:45:32


If you have a good luthier that has experience with lap steel, Square neck reso, or similar instruments you should try that. The frustration of trying to figure it out yourself may not be worth it. My guy made a new bone nut and bridge saddle for my Gold Tone Weissenborn for $120 a few months ago and it plays great.



If you have to do it yourself keep in mind you probably want to try to raise the low strings. Here's a link to a video of how to fill a nut slot,



Never heard of raising a saddle, only replacing them. But there is probably somebody here who knows.


Edited by - Eustace on 05/28/2017 17:45:59

Hunter - Posted - 05/30/2017:  07:59:23


Thanks docslyd and Eustace. 



It is not an original weissenborn,  I wish it was.  



I have considered converting the bone bridge saddle to a metal rod. I have another weissenborn that has this and I think it is a better design. However, I am not sure a previously slotted bridge can be converted to using a rod, as the slot will become a potential failure point.  So to do so, would require replacing the bridge with a non-slotted solid bridge. 



I decided to order a new nut and saddle blank.  That way I can see if I can level it out, if not, I can always take it to someone who can work on them. I think the leveling issue is related to the bridge area,  but I got both just for giggles. 



Thanks, 



Casey 



 

docslyd - Posted - 05/30/2017:  08:34:09


Casey:
Good luck with your repair. You can do it...it's not rocket science. Just sand the bridge witn your sandpaper (fine) on a flat surface like a piece of glass so that its perfectly level. You can use the previous bridge height for a guide. Without nut files, the nut is a little more tricky, but you can do it with a needle file. Just start with the nut perfectly flat as well. Nice thing about working on Weissenborns is there's no cone/spider assembly to worry about in the mix!

Dobrotome - Posted - 05/30/2017:  15:28:52


Hi Casey......and other folks .....a real permanent solution to the "string leveling" would be to get one of the "nut risers" I make....remembering, however the bridge saddles have to be cut correctly as well.
The nut riser I am mentioning is precision machined....not cast or a bent form.....and each string slot is machined exactly to half the diameter of each string. This nut riser "floats" on the guitar nut or the nut can be replaced with a "wooden" piece...not needing slots but also cut to a uniform dimension..or height and any height you would like to have.
If you go to my blog here at Resohangout....take a look through my photos and there is one small group of photos about the Nut Risers....shown there installed on my 60DS Dobro.
Casey regarding the metal saddle....I don't remember if you ever saw the saddles I made.....cut a slot in them...insert a typical metal fret.....don'r remember the fret size???
I could easily make you a metal.....brass.....aluminum......or steel saddle insert as well.
Maybe in the next few weeks I'll design and make up a "roller" bridge for lap guitars......
Casey....since I don't have a Weissenborn......could you take a couple photo of your instrument.....post it along with some dimensional information......?
Dennis was telling me about a "buzzing" condition that occurs on Weissenborns....but I can't remember the details.....I am also thinking that tinkering around with varying string diameters could help resolve the problem you mention.

See you sometime....probably no Dobro Meeting until Autumn.
Take care.
Tom




Hunter - Posted - 05/31/2017:  10:52:53


Hi Tom, 



It is good to hear from you. I had forgot about your engineering prowess and the experiments you have been working on.  I had similar thought about routing a grove in a bridge saddle and putting a bass fret wire into the groove.   I should have guessed you had already attempted this. 



I will be breaking the instrument down later this week and will send you some pictures and measurements.   



Talk to you soon. 



Thanks, 



Casey

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