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 ARCHIVED TOPIC: Upgrade (by my own?)


Please note this is an archived topic, so it is locked and unable to be replied to. You may, however, start a new topic and refer to this topic with a link: http://www.resohangout.com/archive/5642

Ride - Posted - 11/04/2008:  00:29:20


Hi all!

I was thinking in upgrading my starter Regal dobro, by replacing the cone, the spider, change the saddle, and finally, replace the nut.

First of all, I have to say that I never did anything similar in my 10 years of guitar playing, I've never change the nut.

Also, I don't have any "special" tool like gauged saws, or shaping files. And here in Spain, it's imposible to find a professional to do the job (only guitar luthier, but is not exactly the same). So I decided to do it by my own. What do you think? Is it possible to get a bad result?

May the "pre-slotted" bone nuts need any fine work with gauged saws? The same goes with pre-slotted saddles (bridge inserts).

I think the cone and spider bridge won't be a problem... or I hope so ;-)

Any help?

Cheers,
Ride


Zheek - Posted - 11/10/2008:  15:10:37


maybe these links can help: stewmac.com/freeinfo/instrumen...etup.html
and this:stewmac.com/freeinfo/instrumen...4006.html
and:stewmac.com/freeinfo/instrumen...nuts.html
don't be afraid just whatever you do, do patiently and carefully, it's not a rocket science so don't worry, just go slowly and carefully and everything would be fine, if you want more informations you can go on this forum:bigroadblues.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=30, and read some more or ask for some advice.
Regards from Croatia and good luck
p.s. if i find some good information i let you know

Kevin B - Posted - 11/11/2008:  04:32:04


I upgraded my Johnson using the preslotted bone Beard nut and maple/ebony saddle. I didn't have to do anything else to the slots, I used them as is from Beard. It plays and sounds fine. As a matter of fact there is nothing left on my Johnson that is original except the wood. The Asian resonators have steel hardware and mine was rusting real bad (in spite of wiping it off after every use). So I replaced the cover plate, tailpiece and sound screens witrh nickle plated brass. Also put a Quaterman cone and #14 spider in it. They white plastic keys started crumbling and I put a set of chrome metal ping tuners from JDMS on it. Caution, for the eventual money I could have nearly bought an upper end Asian dobro. But, these changes happened over time, not all at once. Also, I know what I have now is quality stuff, and the tone suits me perfectly. Finally it was a great learning experience. Good luck.

Kevin - "Possum, it''s what''s for dinner."


Edited by - Kevin B on 11/11/2008 04:33:36

jaykellogg - Posted - 11/12/2008:  09:31:24


I did this on my asian roundneck. I got a copy of Paul Beard's video. The instructions are nearly complete. I did not need any special tools other than what a fairly well equipped shop would have. I had to reroute the ledge where the cone sits and redrill the holes for the coverplate. I used a Beard cone, nut and bridge inserts. I releveled the spiderbridge per the video. You can do this too.

W. Jay Kellogg

Ride - Posted - 04/22/2009:  02:09:32


Hi again,

I'm ready for the upgrade now. I've bought a new cone (Quarterman QC-10, metric size), bone nut, and a new saddle (maple/ebony). The package is on the way, maybe will arrive this week

Now I'm collecting and reading as much information as I can. I've got a doubt.

When adjusting the tension screw from the "fuzzy" initial sound to a non distorted sound (as is said in stewmac information page), do I have to loose the strings before screwing?

Thanks!

Alan Rausch - Posted - 05/05/2009:  07:51:51


Use Paul Beard's set up video, you can't go wrong. The pre-slotted bone nut and saddles from them are perfect. Change the cone and spider, also some Asians come with the cone screwed down. Do not repeat this with the new cone. To adjust the tension screw, tune as you would. Tighten the screw until it touches the top of the spider, at this point turn 1/4 to 1 1/2 turns past this point. Where you leave it depends on sound. The less the better. Put leather or plastic tubing between the tailpiece and cover also. I currently play a Tut Taylor body I bought from a builder, I bought all hardware including q-cone from Beard. I finished the body and put it all together, and it blows away the stock Tut Taylors. I took time and experimenting to get it just right. But wherever I play, people stop and ask, where did you get that, what is it. It was as much fun doing it myself as playing. Same thing for the duck boat I built last summer.

Licksdad - Posted - 07/29/2009:  05:41:59


I have a Regal and ordered a 10 1/2 Quarterman cone - it sits loosely versus the existing cone - seems that a 10 9/16 would fit perfectly. One member said they should fit with a little to spare - so why do they make the existing so tight? Thanks.

Jim

alaya - Posted - 07/29/2009:  06:30:27


quote:
Originally posted by Licksdad

. One member said they should fit with a little to spare - so why do they make the existing so tight?


That's one of the things you're upgrading.


Edited by - alaya on 07/29/2009 06:31:24

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