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 ARCHIVED TOPIC: Lowering action on round neck


Please note this is an archived topic, so it is locked and unable to be replied to. You may, however, start a new topic and refer to this topic with a link: http://www.resohangout.com/archive/8862

Mule - Posted - 05/03/2009:  19:43:12


I purchased and have been playing a new National Model D round neck. I'm thinking I want to lower the action a bit. I love the tone and volume, but the medium action is starting hurt my left hand making melody chords up and down the neck playing fingerstyle.
I will be lowering the nut slots a small amount but, my question is focused on the spider and saddle adjustments. Should I lower the string slots on top of the saddle or take material off from the bottome of the saddle? I did this once before on a Hound Dog dobro, and I had to reshape the saddle as it was tapered where it fit into the spider. By taking material off the bottom, I had to reshape the sides as well...

Thanks for your advice.......

oroonie - Posted - 05/03/2009:  19:59:26


shave down the bottom and sides of the saddles to get the action down ; lowering the string slots can give buzzes and rattles you don't want , same goes for the nut ,take it off and take a bit off the bottom
good luck ,it'seasy just do it slowly

Mule - Posted - 05/03/2009:  20:20:23


quote:
Originally posted by oroonie

shave down the bottom and sides of the saddles to get the action down ; lowering the string slots can give buzzes and rattles you don't want , same goes for the nut ,take it off and take a bit off the bottom
good luck ,it'seasy just do it slowly



Thanks, I've placed saddles upside down in a vise with brass shim stock for protection. Then measure with calipers the saddle height above the vise surface. Then when you remove material its perfectly flat when you stop at the vise surface.
Kind of a hillbilly aproach but it worked for me....
I just didnt know about the taper issue..........I love this guitar and dont want to mess up the volume......best one I've ever had.....

Tom Jr. - Posted - 05/04/2009:  10:23:04


I have a Beard roundneck that I wanted to lower the action on for easier playability. I have a couple Martins and the fingering is so easy comparitively. After years of hem-hawing around, I got a new spider and bridge inserts from Paul Beard but he didn't like the idea. He built it the way it was because that is how it sounded best. Ultimately, I changed the style of playing instead of changing the intrument when I have that in my hands. No Tony Rice solos, but nice clean ringing melody notes. I'm happy with the instrument the way it is.

Don''t squat with your spurs on.

Mule - Posted - 05/04/2009:  19:01:35


quote:
Originally posted by Tom Jr.

I have a Beard roundneck that I wanted to lower the action on for easier playability. I have a couple Martins and the fingering is so easy comparitively. After years of hem-hawing around, I got a new spider and bridge inserts from Paul Beard but he didn't like the idea. He built it the way it was because that is how it sounded best. Ultimately, I changed the style of playing instead of changing the intrument when I have that in my hands. No Tony Rice solos, but nice clean ringing melody notes. I'm happy with the instrument the way it is.

Don''t squat with your spurs on.



I hear what's your saying, My arthritis is pleading with me to lower it a bit. When I had the round neck Houngd Dog USA, I lower the action at the bottom of the saddle. When I re-assembled it was dead, total different sound...I was in panic!!. However in a few days, it came back. I guess the saddle had to set a few days and settle or seat in.

I did email the National dealer I purchased it from, and they refered me to a couple of links at stewmac. Havent read them yet, but the dealers jest was do it from the top (lowering the string slots instead of shaving off the bottom) Which is the oposite of a previous post here, but, I think in truth, its just critical that the saddle to spider "mean fit", which is a machinist term, is maintained. Not to loose, and not to tight. Im sure that maximum mating surfaces are critical but not at the expense of being too tight....It stands to reason that full mating surfaces would yield more vibration transfer.....saddle to spider

so I've emailed a local freind whom has some nut files and is really good at set ups, and Im going to take it from the top, retaining the factory fit, whatever that fit is......

mojofilms - Posted - 06/06/2009:  23:36:04


I just bought a used National model D about a month ago. The original owner had played it only lap style, even though it is a round neck. He used a nut raiser and obviously had put a squareneck bridge in the guitar. The action was WAY too high, even for bottleneck slide. I got out my micrometer and slowly sanded the bottom off, there is no taper. Once I got down to same string height as my other National (a resorocket) I put it back together, and it sounded great-just as it had before I lowered the action. This is my first spider bridge, and I couldn't be happier with it.
I also sustained a couple of hairline cracks between the fretboard and neck at the nut because, as Jason at National confirmed, to play lap style, buy a square neck. Round necks aren't built to withstand the additional stress of GBDGBD tuning. Also, be aware the Nationals made before 2006 or 2007 have reverse truss rods. Check carefully before making an adjustment if you aren't sure.....

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