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Please note this is an archived topic, so it is locked and unable to be replied to. You may, however, start a new topic and refer to this topic with a link: http://www.resohangout.com/archive/9216
Doughbro - Posted - 05/26/2009: 16:25:57
I recently bought a 1977 OMI roundneck dobro and I think I need to upgrade the cone. The original cone doesn't appear to be spun (no lines).
I have 2 questions.
1. Does someone sell a 10 1/2" replacement cone for a Dobro, or is it easy enough to buy one that's 10 9/16" and trim 1/16".
2. How would I know if I also need a new spider bridge. The old one has legs that are almost flat and I don't know if it will work with a new cone.
I will be doing the labor myself. Any recommendations or comments will be appreciated. Thanks, Doughbro
Edited by - Doughbro on 05/26/2009 19:32:31
jaykellogg - Posted - 05/26/2009: 19:52:35
I did what you are about to do. I bought a Beard cone from Janet Davis Music. I also replaced the nut and bridge inserts. I filed down the parting line on the spider and levelled the legs per Paul Beards instructional video. Janet Davis sells both 10½ and 10 9/16 cones and you have a choice of Beard or Quarterman. To check the spider, I held it to a window pane and checked that all 8 legs touch at the same time. I did not replace the screw between the bridge and cone and I wished I had. For about 80¢ I think it is a good idea.
W. Jay Kellogg
Slideman1939 - Posted - 05/27/2009: 08:16:37
The Beard cone and the Quarterman cone are both spun from the same type aluminum alloy so the sound will be similar from whatever supplier you select. Selling the old cone: surprise--some folks like the tinny echo sound of an OMI stamped cone.It yields a particular old time sound that is not currently fashionable but is salable. If it is in good condition you may get $15 or $20 for it as an E Bay sale. The older pre-war LUGGED cones are also favored on some conversions and are much harder to find--selling at $70 - $75 on the used parts market. They have a sweet "Brother Oswald" tone but lesser volume. Simply a different alloy from a different time period. One man's trash is another man's treasure.In the 1970's and half into the 1980's the O.M.I. standard cone was stamped and a spun cone was a $12 extra option. How times have changed.
Doughbro - Posted - 05/27/2009: 15:07:06
I put a new maple/ebony saddle in the old cone/spider and Slideman, I see what you mean about it having a neat old timey sound.
I need to add another question about spiders. This OMI has the offset bridge, with a one piece saddle and the screw behind the saddle.
Question 3. If I replace my spider with a non-offset bridge, won't the intonation be off? Wasn't the scale set up for a bridge that's shifted forward? Thanks fellas
Slideman1939 - Posted - 05/27/2009: 20:07:08
Like yourself, Doughbro, I ALSO own a 1977 O.M.I. (squareneck/ carved sandblasted Model 66) BUT I have a standard spider. My understanding was the offset spider was developed PRE war and carried over later to post war OMI as an option. The purpose was some of the licensees who were also authorized to make dobros had clearence problems in the handstrap area because the coverplate wasn't high enough--so the offset spider was developed. Perhaps a luthier reader will answer. I was always taught that a 25 inch scale means 12 and 1/2 inches from the nut to the 12 th fret and then 12 and 1/2 inches from 12th fret to the bridge (center of the spider). So IF ONE HAS an OFFSET SPIDER does that mean that either the instrument length where the neck joins the body was altered ?? OR the fingerboard fret positions were altered ??? Logic would seem to indicate a person with an offset spider ( which changes the scale) would require different fingerboard/fret markers--to make it intone properly to various bar positions. IMPLYING that you have to replace that spider ONLY with another new offset spider because a standard spider would throw your scale and bar positions into sour notes. Help....somebody.....what's the answer on offset spiders
Doughbro - Posted - 05/30/2009: 06:01:57
On the recommendation of Jay, I purchased a 10 1/2" Quarterman cone from Janet Davis and they we're very knowledgable about Resos and nice to work with. I also spoke with the Paul Beard folks and was told that my old offset spider would be just fine with the new cone.
The scale on my 77 OMI is 24 1/2" and measures 12 1/4" to the 12th fret. Logic tells me that my frets were laid out for an offset spider and that a standard spider would throw the intonation way off. Slideman, I'd be interested to know what the scale length on your 77 model is, and maybe we can get to the bottom of this thing.
jaykellogg - Posted - 05/31/2009: 03:22:08
Setup is all important. Are you replacing the nut and bridge inserts as well? You will need to level the legs of the spider. If you do not know how to do that I can tell you. The bridge inserts should be a tight fit. After the spider legs are level it should sit on the cone and all eight legs should touch at the same time (without the screw installed. Also the cone should sit in its recess and not tip or wiggle when lightly touched. I had to re route the recess on my guitar. I also had to redrill the coverplate screws as it wasn't centered on the cone.
Let us know how it works out for you.
W. Jay Kellogg
Doughbro - Posted - 05/31/2009: 15:02:23
I've installed the Quarterman and the difference is like daylight and dark. It's a screamer now and it even has lots more bass tone................like a whole new instrument.
Jay, I know the setup procedures and I also found that the adjusting screw wasn't quite centered under the coverplate. I rotated the cone, and I was able to get it almost in line, and then I sanded the edge of the cone on one side to center it perfectly. Your method works just as well and there's always more than one way to skin a cat.
The original 1977 stamped cone allowed the offset spider to set lower. The Quarterman has that little ridge that the spider sets on, so I had to shorten the maple/ebony insert quite a bit. I took my time and got the cone to fit perfectly in the soundwell. After removing the old glue bumps with a chisel, I used a very sharp small chisel to scrape the soundwell ledge, and then finished up with sandpaper. Then I leveled the spider legs with 320 grit sandpaper taped to a piece of granite. I do believe that extra time spent getting everything to fit, makes a big difference.
I've left the action a little high for now (6/32" big E), and I might leave it that way since the volume and tone are strong. Of course the high action makes the intonation a whisker off, but not much in the first few frets where I do most of my fingering.
My other Dobro is a Gibson made DW90 that's all original, with a spun cone, and it sounds very good. Now, I wonder if the 2000 model cone is a Quarterman, or if I could make it sound even better with a new Quarterman.
Both my bottleneck Dobros are 14 frets to the body since I have trouble playing around the 12th fret on the regular 12 fretters. My hat's off to you guys that can play the 12 fretters without banging against the body.
Doughbro