Being a noob, I could ask 50 questions a day but I'm trying not to be rude and only ask a question or two a week. I asked recently in the equipment forum about thumb-pick selection and pick impact but that got me thinking about technique. I started playing reso as I had some picking hand issue flat-picking mandolin and wanted to switch off to something else for a while but now I have to be careful not to get injuries finger-picking.
I've recall from flat-picking that the angle the pick hits the strings can affect both tone and hand impact. When I say angle, I'm referring to whether the pick is parallel to the string and then you hit exactly on the surface of it or it's angles a bit so the neck-end edge or bridge-end end hits first. With an angled pick, yeah there's a bit less punch but sometimes a mellower tone is desired, almost like bowing the string, and then there's less impact on the hand.
Not wanting to get an overuse injury from thumb-picking, I started trying something new, bending the last joint of my thumb so that the pick doesn't hit exactly flat to the string, the neck-end edge of the pick hits first. I find that causes much less impact to my thumb. In fact, I may have to pick that way in order to avoid a repetitive stress injury to my thumb.
Can anyone of the experts comment on pick angle for the thumb pick, whether anything is considered correct, and if players may adjust the angle for a desired result?
-l2t
When I took up the Dobro for the first time, I learned (I assume correctly) that the ideal position was for the flat surface of the thumb pick to strike the strings parallel, or "true". In order to accomplish this, it determined the angle that your had was positioned. That was a long time ago, and there are certainly personal preferences and other opinions. Also, that being said, there are times now when I strike the strings with the thumb pick edge on an angle intentionally in order to create certain sound effects (like a phase shifter...best I can think to describe it). Again, this is a rather personal thing, and only my one opinion. As far as repetitive motion injury goes, I also have an opinion. I would be evaluating the overall mechanics of your picking, not just the angle that you strike the strings. My thought is that the variation in force delivered to the strings and right back at your thumb, depending on the angle is an insignificant difference. And, although it may seem logical that the force is milder when striking the strings with the edge of the thumb pick, I would argue that it's probably not true. I would be looking more at the "gross" mechanics, such as how you "wind up" your thumb to pick, what's happening at the joint, where you place your palm or other techniques that may be causing stress to your hand. I was also taught that the power delivered to the strings is greatest with the thumb compared to the other fingers and in order to get good volume and tone, the thumb may be used on any of the six strings. Certainly there are pro players who utilize this thought and you can watch and hear the result. Perhaps look at the mechanics of some players and compare to see how and where you can maximize your power/volume/tone and minimize stress....
Edited by - docslyd on 08/03/2024 15:00:51
The player needs to provide "attack" in order to extract the designed tone from the string. The most efficient way to do that is with a flat surface contacting the string "head on", ie. the flat surface is parallel to the string. Striking the string at an angle actually forces the player to work harder and also introduces (usually) unwanted tonal artifacts with the edge of the pick.
As a newbie, (welcome) I can almost guarantee that your right hand position should be adjusted, not just your thumb.
A session with a good instructor (live or online) can hopefully find a position that is both efficient and comfortable for you.
hp
Exactly what Howard said...same as me but less wordy!! Noticing how I approach the guitar, my hand is across the palmrest at about a 45-degree angle. This places my thumb pick as we are describing, face parallel to the strings. Then the angle of the fingerpicks can be adjusted the opposite direction, by bending them to accomplish the same goal.
Another thought on pick angle that I recall from flatpicking. With the pick parallel to the strings, I was playing with the angle of the top of the pick to the point. I recall from flatpicking, if the hand leads the tip of the pick by just a bit, the impact is less harsh and the tone maybe be a bit cleaner as the pick doesn't dig in as it doesn't catch on the string. I think that may be a better technique then angling the pick along the string.
OP, if you are REALLY motivated to learn how to play, excellent instruction is 90 minutes away from you.
Roger Williams will set you up for success.
h
Edited by - hlpdobro on 08/04/2024 07:20:17
quote:
Originally posted by l2t...if the hand leads the tip of the pick by just a bit, the impact is less harsh and the tone maybe be a bit cleaner as the pick doesn't dig in as it doesn't catch on the string. ..
Digging in with some authority is what you want on dobro, IMO....
I will seek out lessons but I'm waiting just a bit for some other stuff to get resolved. When that's out of the way, I'll get some lessons.
quote:
Originally posted by l2t. . . I've recall from flat-picking that the angle the pick hits the strings can affect both tone and hand impact. . . .
That's very true of mandolin but not very true of guitar, including squarenecks. On guitar, most players using thumbpicks or flatpicks hit the strings straight on.
And yeah, when you have a chance, take the drive and get the lessons.
Edited by - Charlie Bernstein on 08/04/2024 08:01:13
One of the best tips I received on the topic of ergonomics (reducing picking hand stress / avoiding pain…).
Maintain a neutral angle of the right wrist, such that it is on an extended line of the right forearm. No wrist angles, hinging, arching, etc. And no thumb manipulation.
Position the headstock end of the resonator further out toward the left knee (when sitting), so that the neck / strings runs at an angle across the lap.
This allows the player to pick with less right hand stress while still achieving a near-90 degree strike of the picks against the strings, which improves efficiency (more string displacement per unit of thumb force).
You’d be surprised - or maybe not - at how much hand pain can result from unnatural angles of the wrist, hand, thumb, etc. I experience this with palm “benders” on my lap steel, which by definition requires unnatural contortions and angles. Not ideal.
Photo doesn’t show a perfect setup, but you get the idea. This works for me, and YMMV.
Sound advice from all of these veteran players here.
I'll add a simple tip that I have learned from Rob Ickes in multiple workshops over the years. Though you don't want to over exaggerate and "cram" your right elbow into your side, you want to keep it close to your side which will naturally rotate the picking hand so that with the thumb in particular, you're striking the strings squarely.
Jerry Douglas used to wear out a couple thumbpicks in an evening prior to using BlueChip picks because he has stated in interviews that he broke his right thumb on at least a couple of occasions when he played high school football in Ohio. Since those days it has never been at the same angle on his hand as the average person, so he often "cuts" into strings with the some of the pick edge.
Despite all that, he seems to have done okay for himself. 
quote:
Originally posted by MarkinSonomaI'll add a simple tip that I have learned from Rob Ickes in multiple workshops over the years. Though you don't want to over exaggerate and "cram" your right elbow into your side, you want to keep it close to your side which will naturally rotate the picking hand so that with the thumb in particular, you're striking the strings squarely.
That's very good advice. It also takes some strain off the right shoulder, since you're not fighting gravity by "flying" the right elbow (golf term).
quote:
Originally posted by MarkinSonomaSound advice from all of these veteran players here.
I'll add a simple tip that I have learned from Rob Ickes in multiple workshops over the years. Though you don't want to over exaggerate and "cram" your right elbow into your side, you want to keep it close to your side which will naturally rotate the picking hand so that with the thumb in particular, you're striking the strings squarely.
Jerry Douglas used to wear out a couple thumbpicks in an evening prior to using BlueChip picks because he has stated in interviews that he broke his right thumb on at least a couple of occasions when he played high school football in Ohio. Since those days it has never been at the same angle on his hand as the average person, so he often "cuts" into strings with the some of the pick edge.
Despite all that, he seems to have done okay for himself.
Now we know his secret 
Edited by - FrederickPatterson on 08/05/2024 15:17:59
I recently posted on a thumb pick discussion on FB where tone monster Mike Witcher commented he was happy to get 9 months of use from a Blue Chip thumb pick compared to 1 or 2 nights from a Golden Gate. I replied that I’m well past 10 years on the same BC with no end in sight which surprised a few pickers. Mike explained that he wears out the edge to where it starts catching on the string. My thumb naturally arches back to strike the string squarely. When I was first starting on dobro I took a workshop from Randy Kohrs and he stressed getting your picks to hit square. I was astonished at the tone Randy was pulling from his Scheerhorn, with totally dead strings! Still, whatever works the best for you and Mike Witcher’s tone is flawless.
