Sounds like you're doing it correctly but you're interpreting that it's restricting freedom of movement. That's not the mindset you want. 

To me it helps to stabilize the guitar. You're picking hand should always be close the strings, and be able to move back and forth between getting a more trebly tone toward the coverplate, or a more "mellow" tone toward the fretboard. The fact that the strap goes over the top of your forearm shouldn't be a big deal - you don't need that arm to raise up in the air hardly at all. 

I give the same advice to everyone  - if you're going to practice for say 45 minutes tomorrow, just spend 3-5 minutes playing standing with a strap, and after a couple of weeks add one or two minutes to "strap time." After about a month  or so of this  you won't even think twice about it anymore, it will become second nature. 

It's a hump you have to get over, but it's not a tall hump - like how some players at first who come from regular guitar have a difficult time with fingerpicks. But they get used to them if they don't give up. 

And of course dobro straps are not all created equal. If you've played much baseball or spitball in your life then you know how important it is to have a quality ball glove. 

 Correctly designed  straps IMO are more important to this instrument than they are to a flattop guitar. The dobro itself usually weighs considerably more than the typical flattop, and where a flattop guitar rests against one's body, the dobro is sort of "cantilevered" out in front of you and there is the learning curve to play while standing.

I have two straps from  Bobby Poff in Wyoming  - the leather is more beefy and stiffer - not as flexible as a typical leather acoustic guitar strap. This really helps with keeping the dobro steady and not having it shift around while playing.  

Soft, flexy leather seems like a good idea at first -  feels good to the touch - but it's not so great for playing a dobro while standing. 

Thanks for your reply Mark.

To complicate things a bit I've spent many years with banjo,
and the armrests used offer support right at the spot the dobro
strap is pushing down.

That changes the wrist angle I'm used to, and limits freedom of
movement .

I'll try making some adjustments on the strap.
There is a swivel on the strap right under the armpit, that helps
with twist, but not pressure.

gkentr

Weird - I went back to read my post and while making an apparent typo the intended word "softball" came out from spellcheck as "spitball."  The spitball was banned in baseball for most pitchers 105 years ago! 

One thing about ResoHangout that's a little annoying is the time limit  for editing posts - if you don't catch a mistake in time, it's there forever. I belong to a few other forums and that is not the case. 

I've only dabbled in banjo in the past, but I have played a lot of standard, guitar, often with a flat pick, and that's farther away from dobro in terms of right hand technique than playing a banjo with thumb and fingerpicks. But I also started on dobro in the 1970s with a crappy skinny strap, and though I'm a middle of the road player skill wise, playing standing with a strap is pretty much second nature. 

No idea if you're familiar with our friend Greg Booth who posts here occasionally. He is a superior player on pedal steel, banjo, and dobro. He played the first two instruments for decades prior to adding dobro in the early 2000s, and it didn't him take long to be comfortable with a strap. 

Stick with it - as I wrote yesterday you'll be comfortable with the strap before too long. It'll be like water under the bridge. 

Related side note, that hopefully someone can explain:

When I play high G dobro (e.g. bluegrass) I prefer to stand; but when I play in E or C6, or console steel, I prefer to sit.

quote:

---

Originally posted by gkentr

Thanks for your reply Mark.

To complicate things a bit I've spent many years with banjo,
and the armrests used offer support right at the spot the dobro
strap is pushing down.

That changes the wrist angle I'm used to, and limits freedom of
movement .

I'll try making some adjustments on the strap.
There is a swivel on the strap right under the armpit, that helps
with twist, but not pressure.

gkentr

---

Lots of variables, ie, individual anatomy, strap design, etc.

But...I would say the Dobro strap shouldn't be pushing down so much on the right arm.  it serves more of a "bracing" function for the right arm to stabilize the whole assembly.  Shouldn't feel like you're fighting against it, IMO.

Also, if you're not already doing so, try to let your right arm hang comfortably.  Your right elbow (ideally) is close to your side, as opposed to "chicken winging" or flying up from your rib cage.  May or may not apply to you.

I'd definitely tinker with strap adjustments a bit, including the total length.  If you've got the instrument scrunched up too high (short strap length setting) it could feel more restrictive.

As I think about it, the only playing moves that are restricted by my strap are palm harmonics (chimes) and maybe 1 or 2 other corner cases.  YMMV.

Definitely keep working on it - it does come with time and practice.

quote:

---

Originally posted by wlgiii

Related side note, that hopefully someone can explain:

When I play high G dobro (e.g. bluegrass) I prefer to stand; but when I play in E or C6, or console steel, I prefer to sit.

---

Funny.  Me too, for a long time.  But that's because I learned as a newbie on Open E lap steel, where I sat 100% of the time.  By the time I learned Dobro G tuning, it was to play bluegrass in gigging bands and/or jam groups that were standing 90% of the time.  (When I started using Hipshot DoubleShots, this all became a moot point...)

Thanks for your replies,
I'm all in for sitting when that works, and standing when needed.

All the banjo herd is set up to be the same playing position sitting or standing.
With a strap to fit each one according to the weight.
Light for a light open back, and very strong for Masterclones etc.

I have been making a lot of my own straps for a while.

This dobro is a different egg to fry.

To help the "issues" with playing standing, so far, I have:
1. Joined this forum to ask questions.
2.Replaced part of my strap with a softer and lighter section.
( from the swivel to the end pin lock)
3. Made the new piece 1 1/2" longer, thereby lowering the playing hieght a bit.
4. Made and added a wooden palm rest.
5. Experimented with different picks. With GG multi still my fav thumb pick.
Dunlap makes a XL that has a bit more length, witch works good for the bass,
but somehow trips up when reaching for string 1 or 2 with thumb.

gkentr

Here is what I wound up with for a dobro strap.

Started with a 3" padded banjo strap.
Added a section of Wrangler leather belt to reach the peghead.
Planned out and made a swivel, I named "Mr. Twister", using some scrap
aluminum, scrap leather, and a 1/4" stainless carrage bolt.
And now have made a new softer section to go from the swevel to the tailpiece.

Finished up with a set of S-locks. Those work great.

One more item I did not show is how the strap is attatched to the peghead,
I liked the peghead and did not want to cover it up as many straps are wrapped
around between the tuners.
And i did not want to drill, or mount a strap to the very end of the peghead as
I saw one U-tube vidio of.
So I made a small block, I called it a Strap-lock-block, that fits behind the peghead,
and is mounted with small screws to the backside of the peghead, using an aluminum
interface between.
The strap button fits, the strap is easy to put on and take off, no interference
for the left hand, and the peghead design is not covered up.

Yes, there are 4 small holes on the backside of the peghead, which some folks
won't approve of. But this is not a "high end" dobro to start with, and the set up
works great for me.
gkentr

That’s a very creative set of solutions. Congrats on your DIY results!

If you’re so inclined, you could have someone snap a photo of you standing and playing. There are experienced players on this forum who could take a look at your positions, angles and such, and possibly offer suggestions to optimize your standing/strap setup. (If privacy is a concern, neck down photo would work).

That’s merely a suggestion. In the absence of that, continuing to tinker (trial and error) is an old mainstay. Seems like you’ve got the resources and skills to get to a satisfactory outcome.

Thanks Jamie,
I'll consider the pic for later.
no worries on privacy, it's way too late in life to be sombody else.

As far as improvments,
The new softer section is a bit lighter in weight, more flexable, and does not push
down as much. The leather came from a tossed out jacket, double thickness,
and has enough stiching to keep it from stertching out.
Lowering the guitar down about 3/4" seems to take of a bit of pressure too.

Any lower and my neck starts to kink up from looking down.

Thanks again for any responses.

gkentr

Hi,
The best tip given is to remember to relax right arm, and don't stick it out like a wing.
After reviewing the thred I noticed I was in fact pushing "out" against the strap.
With the softer material, instrument a bit lower, and remembering to keep my
arm tucked in, the pressure is managable.

After all, i've only been trying to use this strap for a few days, I should expect some
kind of learning curve.

Just in case a pic might help identify any other issues, here is a pic of me, and
one of my right hand while playing.

Before this thread fades, I would like to post two more pics of the strap attatchment
up at the peghead.
The block and interface were made from scraps.
I used stainless screws to mount.

gkentr

Just my point of view, the whole strap set up would be way to short for me. I would want the guitar at the same height as if it were on my lap...closer to my belt line.

Nice job on the strap! I’d concur with Eric…you may want to at least try adjusting so the resonator is closer to belt line, and see how that feels. I’ve seen people play your way though, so if it’s comfortable for you, it can work.

My reference model is this screenshot of Troy Brenningmeyer (respected online instructor). Note the position of the guitar and also the slight angling of the resonator, both toward the “audience” and downward from bridge to nut. (The latter are preferences…)

Physiques are all different though, so do what’s best and natural for you.

Hi Eric,
I've seen lots of folks play dobro like that, down low.

But after many years of lower back and neck problems, that's too low for me.
When played that low, there's too far down to focus on the fretboard.

Just like lap steel, I can not play then on my lap.
It takes a table, stand or set of legs to play standing up.
I can get by sitting if the height is ok. Like with legs.
Or sitting in some chairs with arms to rest the guitar on.

I sized the strap by fitting it while resting the guitar on a back counter, where it's
just the right height for playing, and where I have been playing the other steels and such.

On of the best helps i've had for back and neck pain is better posture.
Doesn't cost a lot to stand and sit up a bit.
Also make and use back and neck lumbar pillows. Helps a lot.

Even so, with the steps taken within the last day or so, I am thinking i can get used
to playing dobro standing, as in the "me' pic.
I should at least give it a couple of weeks.

kentr

Sounds like your back will dictate the position you require. I was thinking of your initial comment regarding restriction of your right arm movement. When you compare your photo to the one of Troy that Jamie posted, I think you can see why your arm movement is limited.

What a hoot,
I'm new enough to this forum that i did not even realize I was responding to a "blog"
section at all when posting on "Troy Standing"

I was watching Troy a lot last year when i first got interested in steel and still
had a Weisenborn tuned to D, and a lap steel tuned to C6th.

Troy is a great teacher and makes things very clear.

After many attempts, I changed all my tunings to GBDGBD to be able to use much of
what I knew from banjo to transfer over to steel.
It seemed like a good idea at the time, and after a few months it still looks like a good
way learn to make use of the steel.

Perhaps i'll be able to try other tunings at a later time.

If I was not clear about my strap"issues" i hope to state again what was going on.

It is the pressure on my right forearm from the strap as it passes over the forearm
and under the right armpit.

That is near the very spot that I have had an armrest to lean my arm on and stabilize
the picking hand for many years with banjos.
This is just backwards. It's OK if it takes a bit of time.

As far as the left, or slide hand , wraping the strap around the peghead, but away
from the nut, was working for clearence, but I did not want to cover up the inlay there.
So I attatched the strap as shown.

That is working out great, and with S-locks on both ends, the strap comes off and on
with ease.

gkentr