The only thing I ever heard was that they all needed nut work.

Can you post a picture that shows the issue?

Mr. Ross,

It’s very difficult to capture in a photo, but I’ll give it a shot. It’s super obvious in person, though.

I should also mention that the caving top is not nearly as dramatic on this guitar as it was on the one I bought new three years ago.

Best, PT

It is a noticeable dip, but not necessarily a major issue. Whether it is a fit and finish issue (e.g., neck heel angle cut slightly off at the factory) or a structural issue (e.g. no support for string tension) is harder to determine. Are there any gaps in the neck joint that might suggest a loose neck-to-body connection?

Any further diagnosis would require removing the strings, coverplate and cone/spider bridge assembly to check inside. You may not be comfortable with that level of disassembly. If the guitar sounds good, doesn't rattle, and is stable, perhaps it can be left as is.

Mr. Ross,

I hadn’t really considered that the guitar may actually have come from the factory looking like this. There are no gaps around the heel where it joins the body. As I said, I’ve been keeping it in D to reduce some tension, but I’d certainly like to be able to tune it to high G.
I am pretty comfortable disassembling instruments, so I’ll take it apart and look inside when next I change strings. Do you have any idea what kind of neck joint or connection Recording King used? I have owned a couple of OMI Dobros that had the neck stick, but I have no idea what’s in this.

Best,
PT

I'm pretty sure that the neck connection on the RK Professional is a dovetail joint. Which on a relatively inexpensive resonator, and a squareneck version at that - pretty unusual. So it's not something the average weekend "shade tree" luthier would want to mess around with. 

Skydog commented earlier that he has heard the RK resos are known for needing nut work.  I'm guessing he is referring to the nut width on the RK Phil Leadbetter model which inexplicably has come with a 1 3/4" nut over the years, something you find on vintage Dobros, and very rarely on modern spider bridge guitars. Players have done mods with new nuts to make it wider - and I know it cost RK some sales because they have posted here and elsewhere that the narrow nut turned them off from purchasing a Leadbetter.  Modern players are used to a wider nut with more space between the strings - and the Professional does in fact have a 1 15/16" nut. 

I've played a few of the Professional model in guitar stores over the years and I always thought they were good bang for the buck, though I think as new they go for around $900 these days, a significant price increase from several years ago. 

Of the examples I played in shops, I never noticed any dip in the top - but we're talking a 5-10 minute test drive so I wasn't examining the guitars that closely. 

Mr. Eaton,

I am super happy with the tone of the instrument, and there are no repairs to the neck joint I would attempt, since I believe the problem is with the top. Mainly I’m curious about the cause and the prevalence of the collapsing top. Happily, string height is not an issue. I presume it has something to do with the bracing or is just a design flaw. As long as it doesn’t get any worse, I’m not really bothered about it. In fact, I got a great price because of the flaw. My only concern is whether it can take high bass G for a long period of time. I suspect it won’t get worse, but I don’t know…

Best,
PT

quote:

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Originally posted by taygrover

 As long as it doesn’t get any worse, I’m not really bothered about it. In fact, I got a great price because of the flaw. My only concern is whether it can take high bass G for a long period of time. I suspect it won’t get worse, but I don’t know…
 

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I think you are going to be OK.  I agree with your thinking,  that a secondhand guitar has probably moved as much as it is going to (if it wasn't indeed, like that from the factory).  At least that has been my experience with other acoustics.