I had to look up the RK  - unless one actually owns the guitar I don't think most of us relate to model numbers on import guitars in the same way that people who play flattop guitars for example know what a Martin D-28 is. 

Turns out it's the RK Professional, and along with the RK Phil Leadbetter model which both sell new for around $750 (for the time being - depending on the ridiculous tariff situation), I think it might be the best bang for the buck out there since the Gold Tone PBS has taken serious price jumps in recent years. I've played both in stores and I might give the edge in sound to Leadbetter because of its open body design, but I wish they had put a wider nut on it instead of 1 3/4 inches, which I have on my prewar Dobros.  After playing modern guitars for many years with wider nuts, though I love my old Dobros,  sometimes my bar hits the wrong string because the of the narrower spacing and my picking hand fingers trip over each other. This doesn't happen with my main modern guitar (Clinesmith) or my lap steels with wider spacing. The RK Professional has a 1 15/16 inch nut. 

It isn't apples-to-apples comparing the RK to the Gretsch Bobtail. The Bobtail comes wth the Fishman Nashvile pickup installed, and if you need to play plugged in, then it's a bargain. Aftermarket installation of the Nashville gets pretty expensive. Gretsch is still a family owned company but the manufacturing and distribution is handled by the long arm of Fender. That being the case, Fender/Gretsch no doubt gets a great price on the Nashville pickup by purchasing in volume (they are in some Fender roudneck resos as well).

The actual apples-to-apples between the RK and a Gretsch is the Boxcar, the price is around $450. It's the same guitar as the Bobtail but without the pickup. 300 bucks goes a long way in quality improvement on Chinese built guitars.  You can see that in flattops like Yamahas. $300 is a significant jump in quality.  It might equate to $600-$700  difference in a U.S. built guitar.

IMO it's no contest between the RK and the Boxcar - the RK kicks its butt. I think the RK compares favorably to the Gold Tone PBS even though the Gold Tone sells for a whole lot more these days.  I've played a lot of the Gretsch resos since they came out a number of years ago, and it's difficult to put into words but they play a little "soft" to me. The notes don't "jump off" the guitar. But again, if you think you need a pickup in the near term, then the Bobtail is the way to go. Bear in mind if you do go that route you're out additional money to make the pickup sound its best with something like the Fishman Aura Jerry Douglas pedal which tames the dreaded piezo pickup "quack."

Hard to say anything about the '86 Dobro. They're all over the map in quality. Probably why it's rare to see any pros playing an actual OMI Dobro anymore. I've come across some that are gems while others were dogs. For myself I don't care about having the the tuners pointing up for tuning though it is a nice feature - but what comes along with it is a slotted headstock, and though some people have gotten really good at changing strings on slotted headstocks, I'm not one of them, but then I haven't put in the time either to become proficient at it. It would be a rare OMI Dobro that I would buy from someone online without being able to play it first.

Other used dobros I would consider even if you have to by online would be a Gold Tone/Beard or a Wechter/Scheerhorn (not made since 2013). Sometimes you can get the top-of-the line Gold Tone PBS-M (solid mahogany instead of laminate for around a grand, same with the W/S Rob Ickes model, which even though it's laminate wood, there is something extra going on with the Ickes model.

A quality built guitar you can occasionally find use in the price range is a Deneve from New York state. I can't say that I've liked all the Deneves I've played or heard - it's not all that many - but Dick Deneve employed different designs for his guitars over the years that had a variety of sounds, it wasn't really "one size fits all." But there are players who own multiple Deneves and they swear by them so it's different strokes for different folks.

I have an '84 OMI squareneck I'm trying to sell locally. It has a few battle scars from festivals and picking parties but it's structurally sound and has no playing issues whatsoever, ready to gig out of the box. I bought it from a friend, who said he believes it has an upgraded cone but he didn't know exactly what it is. I have it on consignment at a local shop but could pull it if you're interested (and in the continental US). I believe it's listed there for $950 but I'm willing to massage the price a little for a fellow Reso Hangouter.

PS I'm one of those DeNeve owners (see my profile pick, DeNeve 0007) and that's why this OMI is for sale. I paid north of $1000 but, yes, have seen later ones for closer to that mark.

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I started playing dobro on a Phil Leadbetter last year, so the 1-3/4" nut really wasn't a problem for me, given that as a beginner you're fumblefingers anyway.   I'm still struggling but don't notice the nut width.  Perhaps for a beginner or one who isn't really too discerning of nut width, the Leadbetter is a great option. It has a good sound and is probably equivalent to some other, more expensive dobros. I'd say, don't count it out just because of the nut width. The price is certainly attractive.

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Originally posted by MarkinSonoma

I had to look up the RK  - unless one actually owns the guitar I don't think most of us relate to model numbers on import guitars in the same way that people who play flattop guitars for example know what a Martin D-28 is. 

Turns out it's the RK Professional, and along with the RK Phil Leadbetter model which both sell new for around $750 (for the time being - depending on the ridiculous tariff situation), I think it might be the best bang for the buck out there since the Gold Tone PBS has taken serious price jumps in recent years. I've played both in stores and I might give the edge in sound to Leadbetter because of its open body design, but I wish they had put a wider nut on it instead of 1 3/4 inches, which I have on my prewar Dobros.  After playing modern guitars for many years with wider nuts, though I love my old Dobros,  sometimes my bar hits the wrong string because the of the narrower spacing and my picking hand fingers trip over each other. This doesn't happen with my main modern guitar (Clinesmith) or my lap steels with wider spacing. The RK Professional has a 1 15/16 inch nut. 

It isn't apples-to-apples comparing the RK to the Gretsch Bobtail. The Bobtail comes wth the Fishman Nashvile pickup installed, and if you need to play plugged in, then it's a bargain. Aftermarket installation of the Nashville gets pretty expensive. Gretsch is still a family owned company but the manufacturing and distribution is handled by the long arm of Fender. That being the case, Fender/Gretsch no doubt gets a great price on the Nashville pickup by purchasing in volume (they are in some Fender roudneck resos as well).

The actual apples-to-apples between the RK and a Gretsch is the Boxcar, the price is around $450. It's the same guitar as the Bobtail but without the pickup. 300 bucks goes a long way in quality improvement on Chinese built guitars.  You can see that in flattops like Yamahas. $300 is a significant jump in quality.  It might equate to $600-$700  difference in a U.S. built guitar.

IMO it's no contest between the RK and the Boxcar - the RK kicks its butt. I think the RK compares favorably to the Gold Tone PBS even though the Gold Tone sells for a whole lot more these days.  I've played a lot of the Gretsch resos since they came out a number of years ago, and it's difficult to put into words but they play a little "soft" to me. The notes don't "jump off" the guitar. But again, if you think you need a pickup in the near term, then the Bobtail is the way to go. Bear in mind if you do go that route you're out additional money to make the pickup sound its best with something like the Fishman Aura Jerry Douglas pedal which tames the dreaded piezo pickup "quack."

Hard to say anything about the '86 Dobro. They're all over the map in quality. Probably why it's rare to see any pros playing an actual OMI Dobro anymore. I've come across some that are gems while others were dogs. For myself I don't care about having the the tuners pointing up for tuning though it is a nice feature - but what comes along with it is a slotted headstock, and though some people have gotten really good at changing strings on slotted headstocks, I'm not one of them, but then I haven't put in the time either to become proficient at it. It would be a rare OMI Dobro that I would buy from someone online without being able to play it first.

Other used dobros I would consider even if you have to by online would be a Gold Tone/Beard or a Wechter/Scheerhorn (not made since 2013). Sometimes you can get the top-of-the line Gold Tone PBS-M (solid mahogany instead of laminate for around a grand, same with the W/S Rob Ickes model, which even though it's laminate wood, there is something extra going on with the Ickes model.

A quality built guitar you can occasionally find use in the price range is a Deneve from New York state. I can't say that I've liked all the Deneves I've played or heard - it's not all that many - but Dick Deneve employed different designs for his guitars over the years that had a variety of sounds, it wasn't really "one size fits all." But there are players who own multiple Deneves and they swear by them so it's different strokes for different folks.

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Thank you.

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Originally posted by NCNewbie

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I started playing dobro on a Phil Leadbetter last year, so the 1-3/4" nut really wasn't a problem for me, given that as a beginner you're fumblefingers anyway.   I'm still struggling but don't notice the nut width.  Perhaps for a beginner or one who isn't really too discerning of nut width, the Leadbetter is a great option. It has a good sound and is probably equivalent to some other, more expensive dobros. I'd say, don't count it out just because of the nut width. The price is certainly attractive.

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Thank you

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Originally posted by NCNewbie

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I started playing dobro on a Phil Leadbetter last year, so the 1-3/4" nut really wasn't a problem for me, given that as a beginner you're fumblefingers anyway.   I'm still struggling but don't notice the nut width.  Perhaps for a beginner or one who isn't really too discerning of nut width, the Leadbetter is a great option. It has a good sound and is probably equivalent to some other, more expensive dobros. I'd say, don't count it out just because of the nut width. The price is certainly attractive.

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Thank you

For what it's worth, I own a Recording King RM-991-S tricone squareneck, metal body. Also for what it's worth, it is the only Chinese axe among other American resonators, lap steels and assorted acoustic and electrics in my stable. I purchased it used and in mint condition and was pleasantly surprised at the fit, finish and sound. I fully expected to have to replace the cones, but they sound really good as is. I did replace the tuners as the stock ones were not great. Longevity is always a consideration but it seems to be a solid guitar.

New this model retails for $1,100.

P.S. There's one of these on sale on Reverb for under $1K

I think new the Gold Tones are overpriced for what they are. Having played both GT and RK, I think they are equally good, but I would change out the cone in either. Not a big fan of the sunburst on the GT, so the RK would have an aesthetic edge for me.

What the pros do or don’t play isn’t really relevant here because no current pro that I’m aware of plays a $1,000 or less instrument as their primary guitar.

Hey Dobro Shopper.....I have a number of different Dobros. All but one over $1,000. I paid under $500.00 in 2005 for a great sounding 1977 Dobro 60DS. I removed the original pressed cone and replaced it with a Quarterman D-2. The 60DS is the one that I made most of my MP3 posts here at the Reos hangout. I also made and installed a hardened brass Nut Riser on this Dobro which elevated the strings by 1/8 of an inch and increased the brightness.
I really like this old Dobro with these modifications plus I had Jerry Douglas sign it at the Sellersville Theater in Sellersville, Pa in 2007.
Good luck with whatever Dobro you decide to buy.
Tom

I rarely chime in on these posts, but... :-) All of this is IMHO, of course

For strictly budget considerations, the RK "Leadbetter" is the "better" guitar of the 2 under consideration (spider bridge, wood body). I've been inside both the RK & Gretsch mentioned and the "fit & finish" and setup are generally superior in the RK.

As far as the Gold Tone, which does have it's advantages, the fit and finish is better then the aforementioned guitars. I'd also point out that the Gold Tone _bodies_ are imported but are set up in FL using U.S.A. made Beard No. 14 spiders, inserts and (?) BC-1 cones. I just mention this because an upgraded RK, set up with new components & labor would certainly nudge prices upwards.

As far as the OMI guitar, approaching 30 years old? I'm reasonably certain that a guitar of that vintage would benefit with a new setup (incl components) unless recently done, of course.

Just an FYI, FWIW, etc...etc..

Carry on!

hp

I posted my '84 OMI squareneck in the classifieds if you want to take a look at it; thanks, and good luck in your search!

https://www.resohangout.com/classifieds/detail.asp?cid=12904

Good morning. For what it's worth, I live in western North Carolina, and my local store has a Gold Tone PBS-D for sale that they have listed for over a grand, but the owner has strongly suggested he'd let it go for about $800-$850. It's about a four hour drive from Acworth thought. If you'd like more info just PM me.

Thanks,
Ted

If you can get a deal on a Gold Tone in decent condition as Ted described it would be a great buy. When I was looking to upgrade I found myself in the Folk Music Store in Chattanooga. There were two guys in there - one was playing a standup bass and the other was swapping me out with two Gold Tones, trying to get me to pick one. I don’t remember the exact models but they were at different price points. As I recall, either one would have been great, my wife even wanted me to decide. As it turned out I was dead set on something American made and ended up finding a used Redline, but I don’t believe I would have been unhappy with either one.

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Originally posted by FrederickPatterson

If you can get a deal on a Gold Tone in decent condition as Ted described it would be a great buy. When I was looking to upgrade I found myself in the Folk Music Store in Chattanooga. There were two guys in there - one was playing a standup bass and the other was swapping me out with two Gold Tones, trying to get me to pick one. I don’t remember the exact models but they were at different price points. As I recall, either one would have been great, my wife even wanted me to decide. As it turned out I was dead set on something American made and ended up finding a used Redline, but I don’t believe I would have been unhappy with either one.

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Speaking of Redline, there's been one for $1K on Reverb for several months. Not a bad deal on a US made instrument. NFI.

Worth a look as GADOBRO stated...

They're accepting offers!

https://reverb.com/item/85580975-2015-redline-acoustics-econoline-r-body-square-neck-guitar?utm_source=rev-ios-app&utm_medium=ios-share&utm_campaign=listing&utm_content=85580975

@DoBeau I just noticed that the Guitar Center in Atlanta has a used squareneck Gold Tone for sale for $800.

guitarcenter.com/Used/Gold-Ton...Guitar.gc

Might be worth checking out. NFI.

Please keep us posted if you get something!

Thanks to all that have given advice so far. Have to decided to limit my search to new instruments. Now am looking for recommendations of music stores within a 4 hour radios of Atlanta that offer a wide variety of square neck resonator guitars in stock to try out first hand (The big box stores, e.g. Guitar Center don't typically offer a selection of good new instruments). Willing to travel as far as Nashville. In addition to good tone, am looking for something that can compete with the volume of a banjo (Don't know if this is an arrow or the Indian issue or not). Thanks in advance.

Hi, Beau!

Not an expert, but I don't know of any new under-$1k new instruments that aren't imports.

Among those, I've read nice things about Recording King's Phil Leadbetter signature model. As I understand it, Phil basically took a stock model and made some hardware upgrades.

That's what a lot of players do when they want a good budget reso. Now, with the Phil model, Recording King has done those mods in-house so buyers don't have to. Seems like a good approach.

xxxxxxxxxxxxxx

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Originally posted by Charlie Bernstein

Hi, Beau!

Not an expert, but I don't know of any new under-$1k new instruments that aren't imports.

Among those, I've read nice things about Recording King's Phil Leadbetter signature model. As I understand it, Phil basically took a stock model and made some hardware upgrades.

That's what a lot of players do when they want a good budget reso. Now, with the Phil model, Recording King has done those mods in-house so buyers don't have to. Seems like a good approach.

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Does anyone know specifically what the upgrades are that were made? I am learning on my Phil Leadbetter, but if the cone, spider and bridge can be improved upon, the result might be less expensive and equivalent or better than another dobro.

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Originally posted by NCNewbie

Does anyone know specifically what the upgrades are that were made? I am learning on my Phil Leadbetter, but if the cone, spider and bridge can be improved upon, the result might be less expensive and equivalent or better than another dobro.

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As I understand it, Phil's signature guitar is basically a garden-variety Recording King with the upgrades already installed. So the hardware has already been improved upon.

If I have it right, you could do the same thing with a Regal or Gretsch or Royall or cheaper Recording King and add a hand-spun cone and sand-cast bridge. Another nice thing about the Leadbetter, though, is that it has an open design instead of a sound well enclosure, for a louder, less compressed, more contemporary sound.

So if you already have the signature Leadbetter, you're already there.

There's this: Leadbetter guitar

Charlier, I read that Phil hot-rodded his prototype guitar (which I assume are to the specs you linked to in your post) with a Beard cone, Beard spider, and Shock Wave. Because I already have the stock Leadbetter, would it be worth it to do the same, or would I be putting too much $$ into it to make sense? Would it be better to just look for an upgrade dobro later on? I know I probably wouldn't recoup the money on resale.

Okay - we need some correction here regarding RK spider bridge resos and specifications.

The Leadbetter is not a basic RK model that has been upgraded. It's a different design than the other two in the product line. The Phil model and the Professional both  sell for around $750. 

The Leadbetter is made of  laminate  maple and  it has an open body soundpost construction. The Professional is  made of laminate mahogany with more traditional  construction, it has a soundwell with parallelogram openings like you'd find in an early 1930s Los Angeles built Dobro. 

Phil did indeed get  one of his hot rodded by Bobby Wright with upgraded Beard components. 

Here is where the ball was dropped. Phil's hot rodded prototype according to his son Matt, a fine player himself, came with the wider nut like the professional @ 1 15/16 inches. Something got lost in translation between Recording King which is headquartered here in the Bay Area and the factory in China.

In  the Facebook Dobroholics group there was a recent  topic where  multiple Leadbetter owners were discussing how they did the conversion to wider nuts that end up flaring out slightly over the edges of the neck. My contribution was that it's ridiculous that players should have to do this  - Recording King should just correct the situation and build the model with a wider neck and nut.

Matt Leadbetter wrote that he was going to call RK since he is sort of the custodian of his late father's legacy and find out why they put 1 3/4" nuts on his dad's signature production guitar. Unless I have missed it, I have yet to see  any results from the phone call. 

As far the different parts included on the Leadbetter vs. the Professional, that are pretty much the same. Again, both sell for around $750. The one complaint beyond the narrow nut on the Leadbetter is that the tuning machines aren't that great. 

If I owned either model and it was my only reso, I'd probably just play the heck out of it with the stock parts and save my money for a higher end guitar down the line. I've played both models in a couple different guitar shops and I've said all along, I think they are good bang for the buck as is. But I also have to admit that I'm curious what an upgraded cone and a #14 spider would do for the sound.